Intel® Remote Wake Technology

Intel Corporation recently made known an innovative power-saving technology called Remote Wake that will allow operational computers to snooze in a power-saving mode ,like a sexy lady on wait, until an appropriate message is received over the Internet, either via a VoIP call or another messaging medium. The Wake on LAN protocol has been around for some years, allowing computers with the right Ethernet card and software to monitor a network even while sleeping for a Sleeping Beauty like magic kiss. But here, Remote Wake goes far beyond that. Intel Remote Wake Technology is built upon the Intel® Manageability Engine. Consumers can remotely wake up home PCs from 'energy efficient' sleep mode over the internet from an enabled application or service. This unique feature enhances many existing usages such as remote media access, remote downloads, Instant Messaging, and accepting VOIP calls.

Intel is working with Jajah, CyberLink, Orb Networks and Pando Networks. Because of Remote Wake, a PC will also be able to make and receive calls over the JAJAH network and wake up from sleep mode to receive a call. This is improvement over the current scenario, where you can’t quite use your PC as your phone, because when it’s in sleep mode, you miss the calls. Pando’s service could deliver video at a dedicated time to a PC after waking it up remotely, an option that could make Pando quite viable as a desktop-oriented content delivery network.

Remote Wake would have to maintain a persistent network connection with a central server to function as Intel intends, as most computers in homes are behind Network Address Translation (NAT) gateways that prevent direct access. It's possible that a combination of UPnP (Universal Plug and Play) and Remote Wake are required to leave an external port on the Internet-facing side of the gateway active, which can be used to route traffic to the dozing system. The home PC's Internet configuration requires a router connected to the PC via an Ethernet cable. Requires third party applications and services enabled for Intel® Remote Wake Technology.

Remote Wake could be used to let a computer sleep unless there's a download needed, a user wanted to access files (like media to stream) from a home computer, or a call was coming in via VoIP. Remaining in a standby instead of active state could reduce usage by hundreds of watts a day for a computer that's normally left on in a full-power mode with its monitor off.

Standby modes need to be made more efficient, too. The standby modes of all home electronics, including televisions, toaster ovens with electronic displays, and wall warts for DC conversion consumers hundreds of terawatt hours per year, the output of hundreds of power plants. Standby power can't be eliminated entirely, of course, but newer equipment and smarter engineering could drop standby power use by 90 percent or more.

Energy consumption has become a key topic worldwide, and consumer awareness around energy efficient performance is mixed. The problem facing many consumers who want to take advantage of innovative applications and services is whether or not to leave the PC on or turn the PC off. Intel® Remote Wake Technology solves this problem.

See a demo on usage models enhanced by Intel® Remote Wake Technology

Related articles

• Boffins dream up Sleeptalking PC standby-mode tech (theregister.co.uk)
• Troubleshooting Back to My Mac (macworld.com)
• Sipgate Launches Gmail-Style VoIP features in US (readwriteweb.com)
• Comcast to provide wholesale IPv6 service (arstechnica.com)
• Jajah holds strong, dials up $2.8M to expand VoIP services (venturebeat.com)
• Rethink Wireless (yzerfonteinchronicles.blogspot.com)

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Patience is a virtue when dealing with nervous rats. A little understanding goes a long way. If your new rat hasn't been handled much by the pet shop/breeder or rescue centre you got her from, she will be nervous, but don't panic, you can still build up a wonderful relationship with your new pet.

Let her settle in

Give your rat a couple of days to settle into her new home. Some rats take to their new environment straight away, whilst others need a little more time. Make sure she has somewhere to hide in her new cage, so that she doesn't feel overwhelmed by all the changes. Speak to her through the cage, so that she gets used to your voice. Don't feed treats through the bars, as this may encourage her to nip your fingers.

Let her come to you

Sit next to the cage, with the cage door open. Be quiet and patient. You can even read a book. Let your rat come out of the cage to investigate. It may take a while, but you will probably find she will come and sniff you and explore her new environment. Have a few tasty treats on your lap to reward her with, if she manages to make it all the way to your lap, let her take a treat and talk to her in a soft, reassuring voice. You will find she gains confidence over time.

Make her feel safe

You want your ratty friend to associate you with safety. She will see your hands as these big, blurry shapes coming towards her and that sounds pretty scary. Always pick her up to put her back into her cage, so that she associates you with going to a place of safety. Have her food ready for her when she returns to the cage. She will think, "Hey everytime I go out, when I come back there is food for me".

Give her time

I have two beautiful boy rats, Billy and Ringo, who had never been handled before they came to me. It has taken 4 months of quietly and patiently building up their confidence, before they truly trusted me. This is an extreme case. It doesn't usually take this long. Now the boys love tummy tickles and playing chase with my hand and grooming my hair. It shows what can be achieved if you just give them time. Try not to make any sudden movements or loud noises, especially in the first week.

All rats can be lovely companions if they are just given a chance. Put yourself in your new ratties position and see how scary it could be. If you rat is a rescue and has never been handled, or a lab rat that may have been abused, you are changing their lives for the better and eventually they will understand this andf hopefully learn to love you, as much as you love them.

The Secret of a Happy Ferret - lots of play time

Do you have at least 3 hours a day free for supervised out of the cage "ferret play time," and additional time for grooming and cage cleanings? This is what you will need to have a truly happy fuzzball. From a ferret’s point of view, the more playtime the better.

Play for a ferret will often involve hide-and-seek games, or some form of predator/prey game in which either the human attempts to catch the ferret or the ferret to catch the human.

Ferrets are social animals and need company and someone to play with when you are out; they can suffer from depression you know. So think about getting two ferrets, rather than one. That way they can tumble and play when you are not in.

Sometimes their play will appear quite rough. Ferrets establish their dominance by play fighting, and the winner will grab the other by the neck and drag them across the floor, however ferrets are very social and love the company of another ferret.

Ferrets are good jumpers, and many owners find that interactive cat toys such as a "kitty teaser," a simple wire or plastic-string toy with a securely attached feather or other object, bring out the gymnastic abilities of their fuzzballs.

You can also get the ferret Kong. It is a rubber toy that you fill with peanut butter, or another yummy mixture and your ferret can roll around trying to get the food out.

Ferrets are loyal, playful, intelligent, affectionate, and full of hilarious antics. They can easily help chase the blues away after a hard day. Ferrets can also learn to come when you call them, respond to "squeaky" toys and perform simple tricks (rolling over, standing up for a treat etc. Ferrets are very persistent, intelligent and curious animals who will try to get into everything-- especially things they are not supposed to. Many ferrets like to chase their human's feet and nip at ankles.

After playtime ferret’s love to snuggle in a comfy hammock, or fleecy tunnel.

If your ferret is going to spend a lot of time in the cage, a larger cage with ramps and tunnels should be purchased.

It is recommended that you spend a good hour of your pet's playtime interacting with him.

And please remember no pet should be acquired UNLESS you are going to take on the full responsibility of owning and caring for them for life.

Toilet Train Your Ferret

So your little rascal is leaving gifts all over the house?

Luckily ferrets can be trained to use a litter tray just like cats. They are very intelligent and like to be clean, so they should pick it up quickly. Your whole family should be involved in your ferret training. You can begin ferret litter training any time, although the sooner you start, the happier you and your ferret will be.

Even if you have not trained your ferret you will notice that he will pick a spot, usually in a private corner somewhere, and return to that spot when he has to poop. Ferrets do not relate having their noses rubbed in their poop with the fact that they missed the pan, so please don’t do it. Ferrets do not cover their waste, so scooping is a daily necessity and will help minimize odour. Ferrets are more likely to use a clean pan. You will find that ferrets who feel their litter box isn't clean enough will often go next to it.

Training

Training techniques must be adapted to individual personalities, but some basic principles apply. Put some faeces into your ferret’s new pan and then put him in there. He will probably have a sniff around and should get the idea. If you see him go to the pan and go to the toilet praise and maybe even offer a healthy treat.

If he goes outside of the pan, do not scold him. Simply place him and his poop into the pan. Eventually he should get it. For some older ferrets this may take time. Most of the time, gently reminding him where the litter box is can be enough.

Litter

Clumping cat litters should not be used, unless you place the powder under other forms of litter so the ferret does not have access to the clumping litter (make sure the ferret is not a digger). Some ferrets don't like the feel of clay litter between their toes. Additionally, ferrets "wipe their bottoms" after using their litter pan, and clumping litter particles can adhere to the ferret, and absorb too much moisture from soft tissue. Most of the time, gently reminding him where the litter box is can be enough.

Be careful not to use anything that will give off dust particles.

In conclusion it may take some time, but it will be worth it when you have a fully toilet trained ferret running around the house. Maybe then you could move onto some other more advanced training?

Rat Food - what to feed your pet rat for a longer and happier life

Rats are omnivores, which means they will basically eat anything. You can buy rat and mouse food from the supermarket or a pet shop, but to keep your rat super happy you should supplement their basic cereal food with something a bit more exciting. Improved nutrition can lengthen your rats lifespan to 5 years.

You will discover what your pets favorite food are with a bit of experimentation (don't mention that word in front of the ratties). Try out lots of healthy, fresh foods like carrot sticks dipped in hommous, juicy apples and pears and you will soon see what they eat straight away, what they hide for later and what they just can't be bothered with at all.

My Wombat rat loves grapes. He holds them so delicately, takes off the top and the licks out the inside like a crème egg.

It's ok to give your rats treats too. They like the fruity treats you can buy in the pet shop for rabbits and guinea pigs and carob drops that you get for dogs. My rats like a bit of my dog's dried biscuits too.

Try out raisins and bread and peanut butter, spread thinly, to avoid choking (on a carrot or celery stick) and you will see what they like best. Just like us, they like variation in their diet. My rats, Ginger and Mr T just love chocolate soy milk and a lot of rats like yoghurt too. Regular soy in our rats' diet is proven to reduce their chance of getting mammary tumors. Hard boiled eggs and bacon rind are other things your ratties might enjoy.

Ginger in particular is rather greedy and will actually try and grab things from my mouth! What a cheek!

Try hiding special treats around their cage in secret places and your ratties will love spending time searching for their favorite food, just like they would in the wild.

Remember not to overfeed your rats. If they get fat they can be more susceptible to tumors and other nasty things, so everything in moderation and try and feed lots of healthy living foods as well as the odd treat.

Of course you must always provide plenty of fresh water, ideally from a dripfeed bottle, fixed to the cage, that you can get from the pet shop. Try to clean the bottle and the food bowl out regularly to help keep your rats nice and healthy. Also make sure you change the food every day.

Don't feed male rats oranges. They have a component called d-limonene that builds up in the male rats kidneys and can cause cancer. Avoid all citrus flavours, oils and fruits. D-limonene is not shown to have any effect on female rats, but perhaps it is best to avoid these fruits anyway and stick to other foods your rat likes. Rats don't need to eat as much vitamin C as humans, as they are able to make their own.

When you find out what your ratties favorite food is, you can use it to train him. Rats are very intelligent and will do anything for their favorite food. They also like to please their favorite person too. My rats love to do tricks for a piece of Nesquick chocolate cereal or a spoon of chocolate soy milk (note the chocolate theme).

Rat Intelligence - why rats are the smartest pets out there

We know are rats are intelligent, just by being around them. The knowing looks they give us, the way they solve simple problems and work out how to cause even more mischief. Here is some more info on what we already knew. Our Rats Are Smart!

Learning

Rats pick up new behaviors and tricks very quickly. They try hard to please their owners and you may be surprised how much your rat can learn.

In the wild, rats, like humans are survivors and generalists. They have to cope with every eventuality that nature throws at them. They learn to raid human food and stores and avoid being caught.

Rats have been trained to press a button for food. If they are given food, every fourth time they press the button, they will quickly press it four times to get the food.

They can also learn to turn a light on and off, with no reward. They will simply do it as they like the change. They also like to feel they have power over these things.

Rats have amazing senses of smell and hearing and have been trained to sniff out land mines and bombs, in the place of dogs.

Mazes

Rats are also very good at mazes. It is actually quite fun to make up a maze for your ratty and put their favorite treat at the end. The first time it may take a while for them to get to the treat, but the next time you will see they are much faster.

In one incident a rat was placed in an eight arm maze, with a treat at the end of each arm. The rat learnt how to empty the maze, without going down the same arm twice. It didn't follow a set pattern, so it's route could not be predicted. Someone suggested that the rat was leaving a scent mark at each tunnel entrance it had been down, so that it would know not to go down that one again. However, further tests eliminated this possibility. They then turned the maze around and the rat became disoriented.

It turned out that the rat had used visual markers to remember what arms of the maze it had already been down. Some arms were near a window, or a light. This showed that the rat could picture the maze and the location of the tunnels it had been down. It then reflected on this experience and could find food with minimum effort.

Social Intelligence

Rats are incredibly social creatures, who have very complex relationships with other rats. As you probably know, they can have a very strong bond with people too.

In the wild and in horrible labs, rats can die from social stress. Their relationships are so important to them that there have been report of rats dying from heart break after their partner has died.

Shy rats have been proven to die younger than their more confident peers. It is important to be patient with him, if you have a shy ratty. If you are gentle and quiet and consistent in your efforts you may have a breakthrough.

Rat Dreams

Yes, rats do dream. Have you ever seen your little ratty twitching a little in his sleep? Or even squeaking? Well, it has been proven that rats dream, in very much the same way as humans. They dream about what they have done that day and you may see them moving as they dream.

Treating Respiratory Infections In Rats

Unfortunately our ratty friends are rather prone to respiratory diseases and Mycoplasma Pulmonis (MP) is the most prevalent one.

Symptoms of MP

Laboured breathing, chattering, weight loss, sneezing, sniffling, squinting, rough hair, Porphyrin staining (red staining) around nose and eyes.

In more severe cases your rat may have pneumonia, infertility, miscarriage and death.

MP can also cause an inner ear infection, so watch out for head tilting in your rat.

Prevention of MP

Your rat will be more susceptible to MP if he is stressed. Try to keep his life as stress free as possible by keeping him stimulated (see toys and games page) and keeping his home clean.

Pollutants and exposure to ammonia and faecal material (pooh) will also make your rat more susceptible to MP. Keep you rat in a clean, uncrowded and well-ventilated cage with clean and safe bedding. Do not use shavings, as these will aggravate MP and may cause other diseases too.

If you get a new rat keep them in a separate cage, in a separate room from your other rats for two weeks. This is a quarantine period. As MP can spread to other rats easily.

What is Mycoplasma Pulmonis?

Are you ready for the science bit?

Mycoplasma is a PPLO (pleuropneumonia-like organism). It is different from other forms of bacteria, as it doesn't have a cell wall (this is important to remember when treating it). There are 95 types of Mycoplasma, but rats get the kind called Mycoplasma pulmonis (MP). Mycoplasma is the organism genus and pulmonis is the organism species.

MP is carried in the upper respiratory system. It causes a blistering effect on the surface of the lungs and can cause secondary infection. However genital mycoplasmosis is common in female rats and although they do not always have an infection they will have reduced fertility.

MP is very fragile outside of the host (your rat) and it is very susceptible to heat, detergents and disinfectants. This means that washing your hands with hot water will kill MP.

People can't catch MP, but we can carry it on our clothes and skin for short periods of time. Mycoplasmas live in respiratory passages and lungs, so if we sneeze we could transmit it to our rats. MP can infect an entire rat colony as they transmit it by sneezing, grooming and sexual contact.

Although MP is very delicate and has a slow rate of growth, once it takes root in a rats system it can be difficult to get rid of. MP mimics your rats antigens fooling your rat's system into ignoring the invading organism.

Rats can be more susceptible to other respiratory diseases once they have MP, as it compromises the integrity of the lung wall.

Treating MP

Not all antibiotics work on MP. This is because some antibiotics attack the invading organisms cell wall and remember MP does not have a cell wall, so these antibiotics will be useless.

You must use the correct antibiotics as soon as possible. Remember there are other pathogens that effect rats, so make sure it is MP before you begin treatment.

Good antibiotics to use are:

Doxycycline combined with Baytril. This should be given in an oral form using a syringe, or dropped in your rat’s favourite liquid food (Ginger loves soy milk). Give your rat 2.5mg/pound (make sure you get an accurate weight of your rat using electronic scales). Give this twice a day for 14-30 days.

Aminophylline can be used if your rat has pneumonia to help it breathe more easily. Give 2.5-5mg/pound two times a day.

Prednisone can reduce inflammation, and can be used with other antibiotics. In the advanced stages of MP this will allow your rat to live more comfortably. Give 0.25-1mg/pound once a day. Only ever use this for a few days at a time, unless your rat is dying, in which case keep it up until he passes.

Make sure your rat is getting enough fluids. You may wish to use a syringe, or eyedropper to give water to your rat by hand. If your rat is not eating properly use a vitamin and calorie supplement, such as Nutrigel. This tastes nice, so your rat should take it easily.

Rat Vets - finding a good vet for your pet rat

There are loads of good vets out there for your rat, but it is not always the easiest task to find them.

Some vets may be wonderful with cats and dogs, but do not have the same knowledge about rats. Some vets do not respect rats and think it easier to let it die and buy a new one. Some may overcharge because they don't want to treat your rat.

But there are some who respect rats and have knowledge about them. There are others who respect rats and are open to advice. These are the ones to track down.

You should try and locate a good rat vet as soon as you can, so that if an emergency occurs you know who to call.

Never accept derogatory comments about your rat.

Call up your chosen veterinary practice and be upfront. Ask whether the vets there have dealt with many rats before. Maybe even talk to the vet and ask as many questions as you like. Ask them how many rats they treat and their surgery success rate (it should not be less than 95%)

You can even ask a trick question, such as "Should I withhold food before surgery?". If they know about rats they will know that they can't vomit, so you don't need to withhold food.

When you take your rat to the vets they should put a towel down for your pet, so that the cold table, doesn't make them uncomfortable.

Read up on your rat's symptoms, so that you can maximise the productivity of your trip to the vets.

And finally...if you find a good one spread the word and contact rat websites so that they can let others know.

Tumours in Rats - what to do when your pet rat has lumps and bumps

If you find a bump on your female rat, don't fret. It is usually a benign tumour. You should of course, still get it checked out by the vet. Female rats are very prone to lumps and bumps, especially around the mammary glands. Rats have nipples in odd places. There are a pair right behind their front legs, so this is a common place for a lump.

Benign tumours can grow very fast. They have been known to be the size of the rat itself. It is possible to have the lump surgically removed. If you catch the lump early, this is probably a good idea, as when it gets bigger it will make it difficult for your rat to groom herself and move around properly.

My beautiful rat Ginger has developed a benign tumour. Unfortunately the vet felt she was too old to operate on. There was too much risk involved. He also felt the lump would probably grow back elsewhere. The lump has grown over the last 4 months, but Ginger still seems happy. Sometimes she goes onto a course of antibiotics to help her feel better and she is more tired these days, but she still loves her cuddles and her best friend Mr T.

I have been giving her the following mixture to help her body fight:

Mix together the following ingredients:

3 capsules of CLA (Tonalin) (1000mg)
1 capsule Co-enzyme Q10 (10mg)
10 drops of echinacea/goldenseal liquid herbal extract
1ml of sublingual B vitamin complex liquid
1 capsule Super antioxidant formula (has vit C, E, beta-carotene and selenium - do not give this if Enervite or any other vitamin supplements are being given)
3 capsule Pau d'arco (500mg)
1 capsule Flaxseed oil (1000mg)
1" square of miso paste (pure organic, not flavored)

Divide into 14 parts and keep them in the fridge. If your ratty has a fast growing tumour give this twice a day, otherwise give it once.

You can mix it with yogurt or something else yummy that your rat loves, so as to disguise the taste.

If your male rat gets a lump, there is more chance it could be cancerous. Either way please take your rat to the vets straight away and be prepared for some nursing.

Warhammer 40k Bell Tower Project: WIP Part 1

In our article for today is all about building a bell tower. So lets just set aside some of our worries and focus our mind in creating something wickedly awesome a Warhammer 40K Bell Tower. The most important component in building a bell tower is a brass bell which can be purchased on a dollar store which is abundant during Christmas season. Now that we had already the brass bell we can already ready to construct. So pull up your socks, demist your glasses and repeat after me,”Warhammer is my life”. Did I say that out loud? Anyway, let’s build some terrain.

Materials list:

• 20?x30? foam board
• utility knife
• pencil
• ruler
• popsicle sticks
• white glue
• an Ipod playing Zeppelin and a little patience while cutting the foam board.(you’ll see what I mean)

Step 1 Marking the Windows

I tried making a Gothic/Imperial guard/city of death look to it. This is the part where your artistic instinct license comes in. Feel free to design and let your mind and basic instinct come to play in choosing your desired design of the windows. Draw your chosen design of the window on the foam board. It would be better to create a lot of windows on your tower. It creates a more clear feeling while looking through the building.

Step 2 Cut out your Windows

Cut out your windows according to what you have drawn, it should be pretty strait forward. This will test your patience sometimes cause you have drawn more windows so expect to cut more windows too. Although this is where you'll need to bite the bullet for a good while and just cut till you are so occupied in your work that when somebody come sup to bother you and call up your name three times, that only the time you begin to respond cause you do not want to be disturbed when cutting out the windows. After cutting out all the drawn windows its better to sand the insides to have a smooth sides.

Step 3 Cut out base

After cutting out the windows you're going to cut a base out so that the walls have something to stick in to. You can made it just large enough to fit two space marines along the outside of the building once in place.

Step 4 Glue popsicle sticks

Start this by slicing popsicle sticks width channels in each level. Next glue popsicles sticks according to its place. These will give enough support to the structure when everything is glued together and in order. Once finished gluing all the popsicle sticks let it sit to dry for 5-10 minutes.

Step 5 Glue structure together

This is where we make busted up flooring. Make it so it’s able to rest on both walls for stronger support. Hold the walls up perpendicular to each other and glue down the floors until it dries up. This will enable the building to stand by itself. Be sure that the wall can stand up all by itself. Next glue supports to the base. Use the windows that were cut from the walls.

Warhammer 40k Bell Tower Project:WIP Part 1

In our article for today is all about building a bell tower. So lets just set aside some of our worries and focus our mind in creating something wickedly awesome a Warhammer 40K Bell Tower. The most important component in building a bell tower is a brass bell which can be purchased on a dollar store which is abundant during Christmas season. Now that we had already the brass bell we can already ready to construct. So pull up your socks, demist your glasses and repeat after me,”Warhammer is my life”. Did I say that out loud? Anyway, let’s build some terrain.

Materials list:

• 20?x30? foam board
• utility knife
• pencil
• ruler
• popsicle sticks
• white glue
• an Ipod playing Zeppelin and a little patience while cutting the foam board.(you’ll see what I mean)

Step 1 Marking the Windows

I tried making a Gothic/Imperial guard/city of death look to it. This is the part where your artistic instinct license comes in. Feel free to design and let your mind and basic instinct come to play in choosing your desired design of the windows. Draw your chosen design of the window on the foam board. It would be better to create a lot of windows on your tower. It creates a more clear feeling while looking through the building.

Step 2 Cut out your Windows

Cut out your windows according to what you have drawn, it should be pretty strait forward. This will test your patience sometimes cause you have drawn more windows so expect to cut more windows too. Although this is where you'll need to bite the bullet for a good while and just cut till you are so occupied in your work that when somebody come sup to bother you and call up your name three times, that only the time you begin to respond cause you do not want to be disturbed when cutting out the windows. After cutting out all the drawn windows its better to sand the insides to have a smooth sides.

Step 3 Cut out base

After cutting out the windows you're going to cut a base out so that the walls have something to stick in to. You can made it just large enough to fit two space marines along the outside of the building once in place.

Step 4 Glue popsicle sticks

Start this by slicing popsicle sticks width channels in each level. Next glue popsicles sticks according to its place. These will give enough support to the structure when everything is glued together and in order. Once finished gluing all the popsicle sticks let it sit to dry for 5-10 minutes.

Step 5 Glue structure together

This is where we make busted up flooring. Make it so it’s able to rest on both walls for stronger support. Hold the walls up perpendicular to each other and glue down the floors until it dries up. This will enable the building to stand by itself. Be sure that the wall can stand up all by itself. Next glue supports to the base. Use the windows that were cut from the walls.

How to Make a Warhammer Gaming Terrain Board

The first thing to consider in continuing a Warhammer gaming hobby is to construct a terrain board that will fit all your models. This will give you a fun and exciting place to put all you Warhammer games on which is much better place to play on rather than on the kitchen table or on the floor.

It will also provide you more options on your terrain pieces and create more terrain pieces that will fit on the your table, creating a gaming environment that appears and feels impressive and realistic. It will also enhance your gaming experience and allows you to play more with its wide space area depending on the size you will be doing.

This article is a step-by-step guide on how to make your own gaming boards. There are many options in creating your own gaming boards, it includes the materials to be use, but this is the one which is the easiest and the cheapest as i have found out so far.

What size board should you create?

There are a few options to choose from. They include:

-2' x 2'

-4' x 4'

-4' x 6'

-4' x 8'

(’ denotes feet - one foot = 30 cm)

The 2' x 2' boards are very flexible and allow you to create terrain that you can move around and form into various pieces, especially if you build in hills or rivers.

However, our favorite size to choose is 4' x 4' boards, as it is a very good standard board size and it is very good for battles as high as a few thousands points on each side. It is also easy to add two of these boards together to form a 4' x 8' playing area for especially large battles, whereas with the 2' x 2' boards this is a little more clumsy and creates a playing area with a lot of gaps and unsightly lines.

But in the end it is always you that will choose on what board that will best fit your gaming mood.

Materials and Tools Needed

Here is a list of materials that you will need:

-1/2 sheet of plywood (4' x 4')

-16' of 2?x1? (pine is what we use, but it doesn’t matter)

-16 x 1 1/4? screws

-power drill

-small drill bit (3/16? should work)

-measuring tape

-pencil

-saw

-sandpaper

(WARNING: You should ALWAYS have adult supervision when using any tools or power tools.)

Step 1 - Cut 2?x1? to size

Our first step that will be doing is to divide the 2?x1? into four pieces, two 4 feet long and the other two is 46 inches long.

Step 2 - Create foundation

Drill holes first on the wood before putting in any screws. This will prevent the wood from splitting. After you have drilled holes on the wood you can then screw in the screws using either your power drill if you have or simply by hand. Be sure to screw it tightly to gain enough strength on your foundation.

Step 3 - Attach Top

Attach the plywood on the top of your frame. Once again drill holes wherever you will be putting in screws to prevent splitting. Three to four screws on each sides should be fairly enough. Once you are finish in screwing down the plywood on your frame, use the sandpaper to polish all corners to get rid of any silvered wood. This will give you a smooth edge on your table for better look.

That's it after polishing all the edges and the sides be sure to check all the screws if it screwed tightly you have now your gaming board with a strong foundation. The next step is to finish the top but will be discuss in another article.

How to Make Warhammer Modeling Flock

Spending almost $200 of your budget for a modeling flock is too big just to produce a 4' x 4' grassland gaming board. Is always be a problem you will face in making a gaming terrain but this will not be a hindrance for you to experiment on what decision to undertake. Because you want to work on a small budget this is something you had get over.

Doing research on Yahoo or Google on how to create a modeling flock or by just simply asking a friend who knows how to create one. That can lower the $200 to a $10 or less. But be sure to watch and read on the instructions for they will cause you problems in the results of your modeling flock. You should admit that making your first modeling flock will not be that easy for it will not produce similar to the modeling flock that cost $200. You should not be afraid to try every thing every possible way to have your modeling flock be the flock you want.

Without further delay the content of this article is the detailed instruction on how to make a modeling flock.

Step 1 - Get Your Materials Ready

Here is what you’ll be needing:

-a container to mix it in (we use a gallon sized ice cream container)

-a cookie sheet to dry the modeling flock on (don’t use new ones, your mother / wife won’t be happy)

-a tube of green paint (in the picture it shows a tube of blue paint and a tube of yellow paint, but we found it easier to just get a tube of green paint)

-water

-a stirring stick

-sawdust (that’s right, modeling flock is just dyed sawdust!)

-a fine strainer

The tubes of paint that we use are 4 U.S. fl oz, or 118 mL. We buy them at the dollar store for $1.

You can get the sawdust from any lumber mill that near your place. They should be more than happy to hand over a garbage bag full free of charge. If not, then just find someone you know who is a carpenter.

Take note that the sawdust should have been made from sanding, not from cutting wood.

Step 2 - Dilute The Paint

First you will need to dilute the paint that you are going to use to dye the saw dust. The amount of paint that you water down will determine how much flock you will make.

You will discharge the entire 118 mL tube of green paint into the container and then fill the container 3cm (about 1 1/4 inches) full of water.

WARNING: If you water down the paint too much your flock will be brown.

This is the common mistake which will end up with ugly stuff and waste. Even though it started out a nice green it will end up an ugly brown, which was useful only to be used as dirt and not grass. But we are going to create a grassland so better careful.

Mix the water and paint with a stirring stick. You can use any typical stirring sticks that you get from the paint stores, but you can really use anything that you don’t care getting stained with green paint.

(Important Note: The colour of your flock will be slightly browner than the green paint that you mix, so choose a colour paint that is slightly brighter than your desired modeling flock colour.)

Step 3 - Add the Sawdust

The next procedure is to add the sawdust on the paint. First add a small amount just to turn the watered down paint mixture into a compact sludge. Then continue adding more and more sawdust until it is mixed in well with the paint.

The easiest way to tell when to stop adding sawdust is when you add a bit more and it is very hard to mix in (i.e. it is hard to get rid of the brown sawdust). This is the point where you should stop.

Warning: If you stop sooner your flock will not be fine enough.

However, don’t expect your flock to be as fine as the Games Workshop version at this point for they already perfected the mixing of the paint and the sawdust. That will come sooner or later.

Once you have finished mixing the flock you are ready to move to next step.

Step 4 - Spread Out Your Modeling Flock to Dry

You will now need to spread out the modeling flock to dry. You can use two cookie sheets to dry out the amount of flock made with your desired proportions.

In spreading out the damp modeling flock it should be evenly as possible, then put it in a cool dry place and not be hit by strong winds for 24-48 hours. Make sure it is completely dry before proceeding to the next step, or else you will not get the same quality results as what Games Workshop produces.

Step 5 - Screen the Modeling Flock To Make It Finer

A fine strainer with a small openings you will have in doing the last step and that is to screen the modeling flock through it. There may be bunches that are just too hard deal with. You should really work if this happen until you cannot screen a dust from it. This will not be garbage cause it can be use as a mossy rock on another models.

A Birthday Party: Another Great Excuse For Cornhole

For many people, a birthday is a great time for celebration with family and friends. Individuals who are celebrating a loved one�s birthday have surprise parties, take people out to eat, have barbecues, plan games, and do all sorts of enjoyable things. One of the things that many people do, especially in areas of the country where it is deemed more popular, is to play the cornhole game. Not everyone knows it by that name, of course. Some people call it the beanbag toss. There are actually a few variations, but it is essentially the same game. Most people played it in their school physical education class, but a lot of them have not played it since that time. For individuals who still enjoy playing the cornhole game, however, a birthday party can be a great place to play it.

In order to play cornhole at a birthday party, there has to be enough room. The cornhole game itself does not take up that much space. However, room is needed to make sure that the player can stand far enough away from the board to comply with the rules. In addition, nice weather is needed. No one wants to stand outside and play the cornhole game in the rain, or in extremely high or very low temperatures. The game can cease to be fun that way. For people who have large, enclosed porches or homes that are big and open enough, it is possible to play the cornhole game indoors. Of course, the risk of something breaking or getting damaged rises when a person does this, but careful planning can allow for it in many cases. One of the best things about the cornhole game is that anyone of any age can play it.

The rules are not difficult and the game is not physically strenuous. The cornhole bags are lightweight, and they are tossed gently. Everyone from a very young child up through people in their eighties and nineties can enjoy the cornhole game and not worry about being injured or leaving people out. This is one of the reasons that the cornhole game has remained popular for such a long period of time. It is also why support for it as an actual sport is growing, and there are many tournaments that are held each year in various states for those who wish to play the cornhole game competitively. For people who just like to play cornhole at a birthday party or other event, however, there are ways to make it even more fun. People can pair girls against boys, older people against youngsters, or any combination that is agreed upon. In addition, small prizes and treats can be given out to the winner, so that there is some incentive to succeed.

For very young children, though, it may be best to have a �prize� for everyone who participates, to help build self esteem and confidence. When planning the next birthday party, why not try the cornhole game. Sets can be purchased easily and inexpensively online.

Upright Vacuum Cleaners Have Many Merits

Not all vacuum cleaners are created equal, and this is especially true of the canister and upright models of vacuum cleaners. Most people think that canister vacuums are a thing of the past, and that uprights have taken their place. That is not entirely true, however. The canister vacuum cleaner is generally used today by individuals with hard flooring and area rugs in their homes, as well as draperies and upholstery which needs to be cleaned. These kinds of vacuum cleaners are the best choice for these surfaces. The upright vacuum cleaner, however, is the more popular style, especially for those people who have wall to wall carpet, as many people do.

Not all homes have this carpet, of course, but most homes have carpeting in at least some of their rooms. Quite often, carpeting is found in the bedrooms, and frequently in the living room or den, as well. For people who have wall to wall carpeting or several carpeted areas, an upright vacuum cleaner is the right choice. First, upright vacuum cleaners have more suction power than do canister vacuum cleaners. Their motors are stronger, their cleaning paths are wider, and they are basically more durable. They are not made for delicate work, and they are designed to perform in the face of pet hair, dirt, grime, debris, and all kinds of vacuuming conditions.

They cannot withstand wet surfaces, but they are the best choice for carpet, regardless of the length of the pile or the overall condition. The upright vacuum is the one chosen by most people, and it is also the one most commonly sold in retail chain stores. There are also some companies which make upright vacuum cleaners which are very expensive, and these brands are sold door to door or through specialized shops. A person cannot walk into a standard retail store and purchase one. In addition to its durability and suction power, the upright vacuum cleaner also offers choices and attachments. There are many different colors, models, brands, and styles. A person can also get different motor sizes and cleaning paths. In addition, what type of filtration is offered and the kind of containment system � bagged or bagless � are other considerations for those who are going to buy an upright vacuum cleaner.

People who purchase an upright vacuum cleaner are also often interested in the attachments that the vacuum cleaner offers. Most have a longer wand that can be used between couch cushions and in small areas that are difficult to reach. They also have a brush attachment to better pick up hair and lint, and they often contain other attachments that can be used on curtains and furniture. For very delicate fabrics, though, the upright vacuum cleaner is not recommended, because it can damage them with its powerful suction. Overall, however, the upright vacuum cleaner is a very good choice for most homeowners. For those people who are worried about the weight of an upright vacuum cleaner, self-propelled models and lighter weight models are also readily available, and the warranties are usually very good.